Techniques

Here's a tutorial on how we applique.

Depending on the design you chose, your design may have some stitching steps prior to your applique fabric as in the sample below. Or, it may start with your applique fabric first. You can determine the size of fabric you need for your applique based on the placement stitch as in the photo below. Remove the hoop from your machine and lay on a flat surface. ***DO NOT REMOVE THE FABRIC FROM THE HOOP! Each of the following steps are done while the item is in the hoop.

 

Next, prepare your fabric by ironing Heat 'n Bond Lite (HNBL) to the BACK of your applique fabric. The setting on your iron should be on the Wool setting. Be sure to iron the correct side of the HNBL to your fabric or you will have a mess on your iron. You will notice that there is print on the HNBL which indicates the side that is safe to touch your iron. 

 

Allow the HNBL to cool before peeling off the paper layer.

 

Lay your prepared fabric with the HNBL side facing DOWN on your garment. Be sure that it covers the entire area of your design. Place the hoop on the machine for the tackdown stitch.

 

Remove the hoop from the machine after the tackdown stitch has completed.

 

It's time to trim your fabric while the garment is in the hoop. Trim the excess fabric carefully. You do not want to leave too much excess fabric, but you also don't want to trim too closely and snip those tackdown stitches. I like to trim close, but I have been doing applique for quite some time. You can see our list of favorite supplies to use, including these scissors, by clicking here.

 

The next step is very important to a quality product that will last after laundering. After you trim your fabric, use your mini craft iron to "set" and adhere the fabric to your garment. This iron heats at a low temperature which is perfect for use with HNBL. Click, mini craft iron to see our preferred supplies.

 

Notice how nice and flat the fabric lays after ironing.

 

It's time to put the hoop back on the machine for the fun part---underlay and satin stitching! One of the many elements of a good design is one that the underlay, or zigzag stitches, completely covers the fabric ends...provided that you trimmed reasonably close.

 

And VOILA! You're done!

 

***IMPORTANT NOTE ABOUT HEAT 'N BOND LITE, if you choose to iron your garment after it is complete, use the wool setting on your iron and NO STEAM. If you iron it on a higher setting or use steam, the design will bubble and there is no way to repair it. I iron the design on the wool setting first, then bump my iron up to cotton setting to iron the surrounding areas of the design and garment. Laundering on cool temps and hanging to dry is also best. But you can also dry on a cooler setting.

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